When {X n } is an irreducible, stationary, aperiodic Markov chain on the countable state space X  = {i, j,…}, the study of long-range dependence of any square integrable functional {Y n } := {y X n } of the chain, for any real-valued function {y i : i ∈ X }, involves in an essential manner the functions Q ij  n  = ∑r=1 n (p ij  r  − πj ), where p ij  r  = P{X r  = j | X 0 = i} is the r-step transition probability for the chain and {πi : i ∈ X } = P{X n  = i} is the stationary distribution for {X n }. The simplest functional arises when Y n  is the indicator sequence for visits to some particular state i, I ni  = I {X n=i} say, in which case limsupn→∞ n −1var(Y 1 + ∙ ∙ ∙ + Y n ) = limsupn→∞ n −1 var(N i (0, n]) = ∞ if and only if the generic return time random variable T ii  for the chain to return to state i starting from i has infinite second moment (here, N i (0, n] denotes the number of visits of X r  to state i in the time epochs {1,…,n}). This condition is equivalent to Q ji  n  → ∞ for one (and then every) state j, or to E(T jj  2) = ∞ for one (and then every) state j, and when it holds, (Q ij  n  / πj ) / (Q kk  n  / πk ) → 1 for n → ∞ for any triplet of states i, jk.